Wednesday, 26 February 2014

Module 6: DiversityNOW! Project idea

Today I and some of the class were at New Look in St Stephens in Hull doing denim customisation to promote Bishop Burton College and while doing it we were talking (some of the time) about university work and our next project which is to make an entry for the DiversityNOW! competition. I'm not plus size so I'm not doing that. Going from all skinny models to all large models is not the way to go I and won't work with that. To me it seems like a playground tactic; large people were hurt by the ubiquitous size 4-8 models and the media is getting back at skinny people by implying they're unhealthy or, unlike the models at SimplyBe, they're not "real women". What are we - imaginary? Cheek.

Anyway, as I'm not doing that, I thought I might work with the sub-culture diversity idea and choose the subculture of people who simply don't buy clothes, or at least who don't buy new clothes. Personally I'm not a charity-shop shopper (partly because they take trade away from people who are trying to make a living and partly because I don't want second-hand clothes and things), but they can be good resources for up-cycling/customisation projects when you don't want to cut up your own clothes.

Now, I will have to run this idea past my tutor, but if I find out the name for this subculture I think I'll be able to do it and not look like I'm making it up. Here's where you all come in. I need your help to gather information.

1. What is this sub-culture called?

2. Do you make all your own clothes, or just some of them, and do you have rules like "buy only underwear and hosiery"?

3. Do you up-cycle your old clothes, your family's/friends' clothes, or clothes from (charity/op/goodwill) shops?

4. "Why" to questions 2 and 3?

5. Do you have a blog or Burdastyle account with your projects/writing? (Please include link).

You're help will be much appreciated, and besides which, it's interesting, don't you think? : ) I've also added this topic to the forum at BurdaStyle if you'd prefer to answer there.


Sunday, 16 February 2014

I've uploaded a pattern to BurdaStyle

Remember that Sailor Dress I made ages ago? Well, given I've recently subscribed to Adobe Creative Cloud, I've learned to make PDF patterns and I used that as practice. You can download the Sailor Dress pattern now here.

Sorry for the short post, but it's time for lunch and I've got a lot of work to do before Tuesday. : )


Sunday, 2 February 2014

Sewing a Shirt Cuff Placket

At uni on Friday there was some trouble with a placket. Someone was using a method I had never seen before and it seemed to make the job difficult and give a messy result. She was trying to insert the placket in a seam and it just didn't work out easily. At the time I couldn't remember the way I do it to show her, so I worked it out again last night. As with everything, it's the pattern that makes the difference, followed by the method.

Here is the pattern:

Perhaps you can see how the pattern was worked out. I don't like the wide plackets that are always in instructions; I want a nice, slim, feminine placket if I have them on my clothes. So I drafted one with a 1cm hole. That means that the seam allowances in the slit will be 0.5cm. The underlap will have to at least wrap around this seam allowance and turn under to be stitched down. So it will have to be at least twice the seam allowance on the slit (0.5cm x 2 = 1cm) plus 0.5cm "hem allowance", giving 1.5cm from the slit's stitching line.

The gauntlet (the bit you see with point on its top) will be the width of the slit plus 0.2cm overlap. It needs a cut-on facing (meaning it's doubled/mirrored) plus a seam allowance of 0.5cm. There is a 0.5cm seam allowance around the top of the placket too, and a 1cm seam allowance at the cuff edge.

The measurements of the placket can vary as you wish. I think the underlap could stand to be wider than I have drafted it to better accommodate the buttons. I wouldn't have the slit much narrower though; you need to have a the two seam allowances in it. The buttonholes should also be marked ahead of time according to the buttons you are going to use.

Here are the sewing instructions I sketched last night:

I was going to do a full tutorial, but then I found this one online which is so much better. The placket is different and I might do my own tutorial later, but I think I should do a neater sample if I do because mine is not very neat. It's simply not as good as the one on the Shirtmaker's Blog. If you want a one-piece placket, maybe you can make out what I've written and drawn on the above scanned page for now. : )


FdA Fashion: Module 5 Historical and Contextual Studies

During "Reading Week" (the college and university name for half-term) I and my class went to London to see some exhibitions. We saw two out of three: The Isabella Blow Exhibition at Somerset House, and the Club to Catwalk '80s Fashion Exhibition at the V&A. Annoyingly, we weren't allowed to take photos at either and at Club to Catwalk we weren't even allowed to sketch! I think the reason for the ban on photography may have had something to do with their selling the Isabella Blow book for £40 and things like that. However, someone sneaking (whom I don't know) did take photographs and posted them on Pinterest so you can find them there like I have done if you like.

There are reasons for our going to these exhibitions. We had two tasks that week. The first is to get pictures for inspiration, and the second is to compare high fashion with high street fashion. You can see my Pinterest board for the first one here. The board for the second one is here. It's about the Trickle-down, Bubble-up Effect. If you don't know, the bubble-up effect is when fashion goes from the streets to designers, and the trickle-down effect is when it start with the designers and filters down to street-wear.

This is a module is still in progress and it's quite conceptual, and there's not much to blog about that you can't see on my Pinterest boards, so I'll leave this post here.