"How to Get Your Sewing Machine Thread Tension and Stitch Quality Right"
One of the greatest annoyances for us sewists is tension. But sometimes, when it looks as though the tension is off, it may be something else. There are four things which seem to primarily affect the stitch quality: the tension, the needle, whether you have correctly threaded the machine, and the thread.
Tension
The thicker the fabric, higher the tension must be to lift the lower thread up to the middle of the layers of fabric. You will usually be alright with a 4 or 5 on medium to medium-heavy fabrics like linen and twill weaves such as drill and denim. Thick upholstery fabrics may require a higher tension setting and a longer stitch, and lighter fabrics like cotton or even sheers will require a lower tension setting.
Correct Threading
Make sure you thread your machine correctly. All the little milestones are there for a reason and missing one could totally ruin your stitching.
If the thread is bunching up under the fabric and you machine won't sew, you may have missed the take-up lever or "goose-neck". Without that, the thread will just stay down there and not make a stitch. It's kind of hard to explain it, but if you miss it on purpose, and turn the hand wheel with the machine switched off, you may be able to see what I mean. Until I missed the take-up lever I didn't appreciate it's importance; now I do. : )
Note: If you machine keeps locking up and the thread is tangled underneath, you may have sewn over a loose thread. Turn your machine off, snip the threads and remove the ones that are stuck. Then you can switch your machine back on and sew again, keeping all loose threads out of the way. : )
Needle
If you have been spending hours (or possibly days) trying to get the tension correct then it's probably not a tension problem. Try a bigger needle. A size 14/90 is a good average size for medium to medium-heavy cottons etc. and for when you use Sew-all thread.
People will usually tell you that to sew fine fabric such as lining fabric you must use a fine needle, e.g. size 80 or below. What they don't tell you is that that is only correct if you are using a fine thread like fine silk as well, or possibly if you are sewing a loose-weave fabric. Otherwise the needle won't make a big enough hole for the lockstitch and it will look like you have too loose upper thread tension. I seldom go below a size 14/90 unless the type of needle doesn't go up that high.
Thread
If that still doesn't fix it, make sure you are using quality thread. For some reason, even polyester cheap thread doesn't give the desired results. Use Gutermann or Coats. They are kinder to your machine anyway because they are smoother and don't leave so much fluff on your machine.
"Good in, Good out"
Remember, if you want your machine to give you good results and to last a long time, you have to look after it and that includes giving it good 'food' i.e. thread. It's the same as any other appliance, or even you. You know that junk food is bad for you. Well, junk thread is bad for your machine.
This is just what I have found out recently through experience. I don't know if it's just my machine, but my Brother XR6600 seems to be rather picky and likes to have the best. : )
Other things you can do
For tricky fabrics, like sheers and leathers etc., it helps to have the right foot, but if you don't have one, you can put tissue paper, such as Burda make, on top to help the feed, or underneath to stop fabrics from getting pulled down the needle hole. Putting it underneath also helps to get embroidery stitches to look right. You can use stabilizer if you prefer.
Save Time with This Helpful Tip
When you sew a new fabric, find the correct needle and tension and write it and the fabric's name on a swatch of the fabric. As you go along you will build a little encyclopedia of fabric. Then you won't have to keep trying to find the right tension and needle for the fabric. You can save hours! You might even try a blind hem and various stitches to find the best stitch settings and the colour and type of thread and write that down. Then you know what thread to shop for when you sew something else from the same fabric.
Until next time, happy sewing!
Sabrina Wharton-Brown
P.S. What problems have you had with your machine, and how have you fixed them?
Labels: sewing, tension; sewing machine; sewing machine; tuition; threading; needle
posted by SWB @ May 23, 2011
70 Comments
70 Comments:
Thank you!! This posting kept me from losing my sanity. I've been working on 5 thicknesses of a brocade-type drapery fabric making a pleated trim for a round tablecloth. The bobbin threads kept bunching up in my machine (viking 1+) and skipping stitches. I kept decreasing the tension and increasing stitch length and it didn't help. After your post, I increased the tension and I finished it and am thrilled. Thank you for keeping from throwing it out in frustration.
Thank you "Anonymous" for your comment. I'm so glad my post helped you.
In quite a coincedence I recently made an ottoman cover with piping and a gathered skirt for a customer. That was of brocade fabric with a good drape too.
Wishing you a wonderful day and happy sewing,
Sabrina.
I am having trouble making crisp, square corners with my sewing machine. Specifically, the top thread does not make a crisp corner, but the bottom thread is usually ok. I use my machine infrequently, so have to re-learn to thread it properly each time, so it could be something simple. However, I have been careful and do not think that is the problem. Any suggestions?
Hi,
All I can think of that might help is to make sure that your upper thread goes between the tension discs when you thread your sewing machine. Be sure to raise the presser foot when you thread the upper thread. Raising the presser foot opens the tension discs so that the thread can slot between them.
Otherwise, maybe your upper tension is too low or your needle is too small for the fabric?
Sabrina.
I love your tip about writing the needle, tension and other comments on a swatch of the fabric for future use! I'm going to start doing that right away.
Beth
Hello - hopefully you can help me out...
I am sewing with cotton fabric and using good quality thread with a size 14 needle, but my bobbin thread keeps showing through my needle thread. I've tried adjusting my needle tension up and down, but it makes no difference at all! It used to work fine and I always had the tension set to 3 on the dial, but for some reason recently it's just not happy!
Hi Figaro'sFancies,
Maybe a size 12 needle would be better if your fabric is thinner than, say, medium weight linen. The size 14 needle might be making too big a hole.
I hope that helps. Please let me know how it goes. :)
Sabrina
my saviour!!!!! I've just spent 2 hours (this time... this happens regularly) messing around with every tension variable I could think of, with nothing to show for it (ON TOP OF trying to figure out how to finish a mid-weight linen seam; VERRRY aggravating), but now have changed from a 10 to 14 needle, and, hey presto, a normal line of stitching!
Hi, i am try to sew a long satin stitch to gather up to make a skirt. When i increase the stitch length to no 4 it doesn't seem to increase the stitch size correctly. The understitch looks ok but top stitch is too small. Any help you can offer me would be much appreciated. Thanks
It sounds as though your upper thread tension is too tight, or else your upper thread has got caught on something. Try rethreading your sewing machine and if that doesn't work, try reducing your upper thread tension.
Thank U so much.. The thread was gathering up under the material, u explained so clearly about tension and the material being sewn.. My bobbin holder fell appart i found the extra tiny screw about half a ml long and put that back together then read ur article and da daaaa i can get back to sewing.. Only been trying to fix this prob for about5 hrs.. XxXxXxxx
Glad I could help! :)
Sabrina
Thanks for your posts. I'm doing an upholstery project - the fabric is a lightweight upholstery and I'm using a heavier gauge thread than typical for my machine. For some reason, the top thread tension looks fine, but the bottom is wavy/not aligned. I've tried tightening and loosening the tension on the bottom without any luck. I'm using a 90/14 universal needle, I tried the 100/16 without any luck either. Any ideas?
With thicker thread, or when using more than one strand of sew-all thread you have to use a higher upper thread tension. I found that out when I tried using top-stitching thread.
I think it's because the thicker thread takes more force to stop its going through the tension discs so quickly, kind of like it takes someone very strong to stop a rope sliding down, but anyone can stop a piece of string.
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
I am working on a project using silk. It is my first time working with silk. My machine wasn't stitching the pieces of fabric together or making irregular stitches. I had taken apart my machine (bobbin area), increased the tension, changed my needle and needle size, checked my threading, etc., etc., spending several hours at this and not seeing any results! Finally, after reading your post, I DECREASED the tension and voila, it was like magic, my machine sewed perfectly again. My project is coming together beautifully!
Hello
Came upon your site while trying to discover why the bobbin thread of my work kept tangling up. On reading your tips I increased the tension and changed to a size 14/90 needle (I didn't even realize I had these!!) and voila, easy peasy. I have been putting off this mending job for weeks, and now it's all done. I also ran up a new peg bag while I was at it. Many thanks.
Help! I am making drapes with blackout lining. The lining isn't super this but is this enough to be blackout. I just started sewing and the thread keeps getting bunched up underneath and the needle gets stuck and won't budge. I am using a 14 needle. After the first problem, I read your post and moved the tension from 3 to 4. But the same thing happened again! What should I do?
Well, let's see what we can do...
Have you tried rethreading your sewing machine?
If that doesn't fix it, it may be the timing. Without any fabric in your sewing machine, turn the hand-wheel and watch the hook to see if it goes behind the needle and picks up the thread. If it doesn't, you may need your machine servicing.
Will you let me know what happens please? :)
Help!
Whatever tension I use, more fabric on the lower layer goes through, giving a puckered seam. The machine has just been serviced, I've got a walking feet foot, I'm sure I know how to thread the mac., two sheets of paper go through together, new needle.
By the time I'd sewn curtain tape on, there was a surplus of tape, despite being pinned and held by me.
What's going on? I've fiddled with the tension but it seems to make no difference.
Oh dear! All I can think of is to adjust the presser foot pressure if you sewing machine allows; if paper goes through all right, but fabric doesn't, you could try reducing the pressure. Otherwise, I'm sorry but I haven't got a clue.
Your article states higher tension for thicker fabrics. Doesn't that make the top thread tight and the bobbin thread loose? I've thought that was what was going wrong when sewing, top side too tight and underneath too loose, so have had the tension fairly loose to try to equal things out.
I do read conflicting info online.
The lower thread tension is constant (unless you alter it with the screw on the bobbin case); increasing the upper thread tension just pulls the bobbin thread up a bit more in the stitches, like when you lift something.
I have been trying to finish hemming jeans[european hem] and the tension is better at 7, but I have tried all the numbers from 3-9, but it still isn't perfect on the bottom stitch it is still a little bumpy, any advice? also I have a problem going over the seam because it is too thick, it always gets jammed. I am a novice by the way
Are you using topstitching thread or ordinary sew-all thread? It's to be expected that thicker thread will show through on the underside if you are using sew-all thread underneath (just look at RTW jeans stitching).
To go over thick seams, you need to get or make a "humper-jumper" or "jean-a-ma-jig". You can just roll up some extra fabric that fills the gap that appears when you come to the bulk or start passing it. Putting the extra fabric underneath levels the presser foot and helps the machine to feed the fabric through much more easily. You also need to lengthen the stitch at the thicker parts because the thread has more fabric to go around in each stitch.
i am using thicker thread, not sure exactly the thickness but I tried to match the thread that was originally used, so there is no way to make thicker thread smooth underneath? thanks for the help
Hey there! Maybe you could help and save me an hour trip to my machine servicer. I just experimented with my thread tension and needles. I used a 70 needle and then a 90 needle. No matter what the needle tension is or the needle size the needle thread shows on the bobbin thread. From 0 thru 9 it shows. The bobbin thread doesn't show on the needle thread around 3 or 4 so that's not an issue. Is this a bobbin issue? I'm using 100% cotton fabric and 100% polyester thread. Also, if the bobbin thread doesn't show around 3 and 4 but always shows on the bottom, would this affect the integrity of the stitch? Should I just ignore it? Sorry for so many questions.
Thanks for any input! Love your blog :)
Thank you! What a nice name you have! And it goes so well with that picture of the flower! :)
Now to try and solve your problem.
Do you raise the presser foot before you thread your sewing machine? If you don't, the thread won't go between the tension discs so they won't do any good. If that doesn't fix it, you could clean the tension discs by raising the presser foot, putting some fabric in between the tension discs, lowering the presser foot, moving the fabric that is between the tension discs up and down to wipe the tension discs, and then removing the fabric. This should get rid of any fluff that may be interfering.
The important thing is that the stitch looks the same on both sides. On thin fabric, you will likely see some of the top thread underneath, and some of the bottom thread on top, when the tension right; the fabric isn't thick enough to hide the stitch-link.
Do let me know if it helps!
hi, i just started sewing. first half an hour it was okay. after that the needle is getting stuck just after 2 stiches. I have been working on this for hours. please help me.
It could be tension; in which case, double check that you have threaded your machine correctly with good quality thread.
If the tension is alright, it is probably worth getting your machine serviced by a professional.
Is your sewing machine a proper make, or is it a cheap machine from a big box store or one of those mini straight stitch machines? The latter two are not worth bothering with. I had a machine from a "brand" called Elitech once (bought off a reverse-auction TV channel) and it kept tangling up. I had to get rid of it.
Sorry I can't be of more help.
my mechine is new butter fly JA11. when i stitching the bobbin thread is thicken more and more and it will stopped and thread is totally disorder ,does not work with properly pls help me .......reply
It sounds to me like you may have the wrong type of bobbin. Did the one you are using come with your sewing machine?
ya the bobbin is come with machine.... no sound but the thread is thicken or bobbine thread is in three or more layers during stitching then stopped the working
I think the best thing to is either get your machine serviced or (sorry) buy a different one. Sorry I can't be of more help.
thanks
So I wanted to let you know this post helped me a TON! I have been sewing all my life on and off as a hobby, but nothing serious until I had a great idea that I had to try. This post helped me trouble-shoot my project and I am so thankful for it!
Thanks for your insight on my lil issue. I did get brave and test out each tension number and picked the best one until I can afford to go to the shop.
Thanks again - you're wonderful :)
I have been trying to hem jeans. The bobbin is bunching up and won"t sew. I am using quality thread but it is heavy for top stitching. I have used a variety of needle sizes, I have adjusted both tensions;ie bobbin and upper. I am using a long stitch. None of these corrections are working. I re-threaded with a regular thread and med. needle size to check that my machine was not messed up. I sew on a light wt upholstery and my stitch was beautiful. Help. I think I might have to go buy regular wt thread to hem these jeans with.
I think some machines are "top-stitching thread intolerant". My Brother machine was and I had to use two spools of regular thread in the same needle. I had a dreadful time trying to hem my jeans until I switched to regular thread.
Thank you for your help....I will try that
Hi I just bought a Brother sewing machine and I wanted to hem a pair of jeans. They are not the thick jeans, they are like jegings. But I have no clue of what kind of needle or thread or tension to use since this is my first time owning a machine.I had a little mini machine but it was just one type of needle and setting. Thanks!! -Kem
I would just use a universal needle (size 14/90) and regular thread and tension. If your jeans are stretchy and very narrow at the hem (i.e. they stretch when you put your foot through) it would probably be a good idea to use the triple-straight-stitch which your new machine likely has (its picture looks like parallel three rows of straight stitches). It has more stretch to it and is bolder for top-stitching.
If you do not need the stretch at the hem, you can use two spools of regular thread, threaded through the same needle. If you are doing this, you can increase the tension by one or two numbers, to about 5 I should say.
For topstitching jeans you use a stitch length of about 3-4mm.
You may get a nicer result if, when you go over the thick seams, you lengthen the stitch a little and slow down a bit (unless you are already sewing slowly of course!).
Thank you! I will try that.
Thank you so much - this post and comments are super helpful. Bookmarking!
Great site! I recently hemmed up some pants - polyester type fabric. Sewing was great. Now I am making the skirt portion to attach to a knit top. The skirt fabric is like chiffon. My machine top thread keeps breaking even though I adjust the tension. The thread is a coats polyester.
There are two things you can do:
1) try a new needle. A universal size 70 or 80 would probably do.
2) try Gutermann sew-all thread. I recently used some Mettler and I think it burred a microscopic hole in the needle eye. I couldn't see it, but it was apparently enough to damage the thread.
You probably just need a new needle. Have you been using metalic or other shiney threads in it?
I really needed this! THanx!
THANK YOU! All I needed was to know whether to go higher or lower on my tension and yours was the only blog I could find that told me that in one simple sentence. I out the tension higher and it sewed through the strap I was working on so perfectly. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Hi, i am trying to sew a thickish cotton fabric ( hemmimg triple layer) but it keeps gagging underneath. I hear a like a clunking noise in the bobbin area and then the cotton reel spins around leaving lots of loose thread up top which then winds itself around the little pole it sits on. I have tried diffrent size needles, changed thread and tried tension both ways.I tried some stitching on thinner poly cotton and seemed to be fine . My machine is a basic old one straight stitch only & was serviced about 3 months ago.
Hi.
I'm really sorry, but I don't know what to suggest about your sewing machine. Was it serviced by someone experienced with machines like it?
I am trying to sew denim, repair of some blue jeans. But when I get into the multiple layers like the edge of pockets my top thread must break for some reason. I only have tension at around 3, which seemed fine at other places.
This literally my first attempt at sewing. I borrowed the machine from a friend.
needle style is singer 2020, size 100/16
I was sewing a zipper using a zipper foot and the needle broke. I put a new needle in and the thread kept getting bound under the fabric, making the needle stuck. I changed the bobbin and rethreaded the machine several times and this continued to happen. It's a friend's machine and I'm worried I may have broke it. Any suggestions?
Hi,
Great tips!! Your tips have been soooo helpful in sewing my home decor cotton fabric. Now I am working with heavy upholstery fabric...some has a chenille pattern so it is thick. What would be the correct needle size, tension and thread length? I know you said to use a longer stich but am not sure how long. Any help would be so appreciated.
Hi,
The short answer is: I don't know. The only way to find out is to test on some scraps of fabric until it looks right. :)
If it's thick, you would probably want a needle of at least size 90, a tension of at least average (the middle as marked on your machine), and a stitch length of at least 2.5-3.5mm. That's the starting point.
It's unlikely that you've broken it.
First off, clean out the machine as the instruction book directs.
When you start sewing, have long threads (about 5 inches) coming from the needle and the bobbin and hold them out of the way. If you don't, the bobbin thread can sometimes get sucked back into the machine and tangle up.
If those things don't work, I don't know what do. Does your friend know if the machine was working properly when s/he lent it to you? When was it last serviced? Is it very old and has been in a damp place for a long time?
Sorry I've taken so long to reply; I've just moved house and we've only just got the Internet working again.
First advice is to use a new needle and quality thread. The tension for thicker places must be a bit higher than the thinner places. I would say at least a 5 or 6. You will also find it helps to lengthen your stitch by a millimetre or two.
When you sew over "speed-bumps" you usually have to have a humper-jumper or some rolled up fabric or something to keep the presser foot level and maintain the thickness of fabric under it. Otherwise it's like driving on road-wide pot holes; if you can imagine how unpleasant that would be you can imagine what the sewing machine is going through! :)
Also, slow down at the thicker parts. It really is a lot like driving a car. :)
Hi, trying to take a hem up in 100% polyester dress. Material is catching and puckering - it the tension? I'm a total novice using a machine that was my mums. It's a singer 257 and the tension setting is 3-4. Should it be a higher number? Thanks in advance
Maggie T
Thank you so much Sabrina :)
What a brilliantly explained and helpful thread. ..x Blessings from Millie x
It could be the tension, but better carefully rethread your sewing machine top and bottom as the manual instructs first to make sure nothing is caught. If you don't have a manual, you should be able to find it on Singer's US website.
If it is the tension, see which side of the material the tight thread is - if it's the top one, lower the tension; if it's the bottom one (and you dare), try lowering the bobbin tension. There will be a little screw somewhere on the bobbin case near a sort of metal flappy thing that holds the thread in place. Turn the screw about an eighth to a quarter of a turn anti-clockwise and see if that makes a difference. You can find out more about bobbin tension by Googling it; it's a of bit trial and error.
Different machines take different fine tuning and even changing your needle size/type could make all the difference. Try a Universal size 90/14 needle.
Thank you! :)
_Please help!
I was recently given a Kenmore Ultra Stitch 6. When I try to sew zigzag (rehemming napkins) the tension slips the thred out and it subsequently breaks. Also the stitches do not look like satin stitches.Any suggestions before I tackle slipcovers for my camelback couch.
carolmounier, Orlando, Florida
Sorry, I'm not an expert. :) All I can suggest is to get your sewing machine serviced; maybe it just needle a thorough clean out.
Ive read through all the comments to find someone with similar problem to mine but no luck :( so i thought id comment myself.
My sewing machine sews fine on majority of fabrics except for this one cotton T-shirt that i wanted to make. It was orginally an old t shirt that i wanted to change the cut of but the machine wont sew on it properly. I tried zig zag and straight stitch but it comes out loose and the thread doesnt even go through the fabric (i can pull it right out)
Its kind of stretchy and its 100% cotton, maybe because its too old?
thank you in advance :)
Hi,
Sorry it's taken so long to reply; I've just started college. :)
It sounds like the first thing you should do is change needles. Try a universal needle, size 80 or 90. If you still have now luck, try sewing with the fabric between two layers of tissue paper. Also, check the tension is on a "normal" setting (usually 3-5).
Thank you, thank you, after 2 days of messing I read your article! Changed the needle, no luck, altered the tension (I didn't actually think 4/5 were to use, bit like 100 mph on the car!), still no luck, one new reel of cotton later, perfect!
Guess I won't be buying anymore bargin packs of thread.
Thank you so much for your help, just saved me loads of time was about to start hand sewing as didn't think my machine could handle my heavy fabric but changed my foot and tension and voila all sorted, thanks again Rebbecca.
I am going to give the tension a try tomorrow - I've been sewing with no issues and all of the sudden after like two or three stitches the needle won't hold the thread and comes totally undone - I cannot make any progress! I'm sewing with thick fabrics so I will try the tension. ARG!
Hi there! Thank you so much for this. I do have a question though...
Lately every time I sew, the thread seems to bunch or be too loose - I have changed the tension setting and each time there is something wrong with the sewing (one side will look perfect, but the other side is all knotted). No tension number works! I have cleaned out my bobbin & underneath. I also changed the needle, but I am stumped since I am using the same needle and thread type as when it was working perfectly. help!
I forgot to ask - is there a how-to website or video you would recommend for servicing & cleaning your own machine? I use a brother as well.
Hello Taylor,
Usually when that happens to my sewing, I have missed something in threading or the thread has come out of place somewhere. I was using a sewing machine at college the other day and it happened; someone had miss-threaded the bobbin.
I have tried to learn how to service my own machine but the smell of the oil and the strength required with a screwdriver suggested to me that mechanics is not my forte. The information I used was from Trumble, but it wasn't all that helpful for me.
This woman is quite good for beginners on Youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ONcv50OoQYk
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