Uniform 2020 jacket continues...

Yesterday I drafted a two-piece sleeve block, sewed a toile and took it in. Then I adapted it to make a darted sleeve head as per my design. I intended that there be no ease in the sleeve cap; it should have been taken out in the darts, but there is still some in there.

 But to the beginning. A day or two after I pinned the style lines on, I pinned them carefully and completely, snipped the tape at the jacket's opening so that I could remove the jacket from the stand, and machine basted the tape on.

After a while I thought the best way to transfer the lines to a copy of the pattern would be to lay a copy of the pattern on the dress form (while it was wearing the jacket), and draw them on. It wasn't very neat but I sorted that out afterwards.

Now I have a first working pattern of the jacket. Given the Princess seams at the front have been moved and have therefore affected the fit, I'll have to make a toile or possibly two more, and keep updating the pattern. Perhaps I'm going about this the long way, but I want to be sure of getting the style lines just right.

This is the back of my jacket toile with one plain two-piece sleeve and one darted head two-piece sleeve (the one you can see). You can't see it in the picture, but I have drawn on it the new lines I want: the back sleeve seam must start higher up to match the Princess seam, and the sleeve head darts must also move. I'm not sure whether the sleeve is right, i.e. matches the tech drawing.

The next thing I have to do is alter the sleeve pattern, then make a toile of the jacket design. It will  need correcting, but parts of this jacket will be made in leather-like fabric so I have to get the fit right now in calico.

Apart from this I also have to work on my illustration module. My current collection's concept is the Human Body (I was given this concept, I didn't choose it), and the style is couture 2014 for a single woman in her 30s who will spend £950 on one garment. This imaginary person must have a good job! I don't think all my clothes together cost that much!

Part of the work for my sketchbook was to try different illustrations styles, and I have done three examples of stitched illustrations. I like the last one best:

It looks better in real life. : ) The blouse, skirt and wings are appliqu├ęd on. The music from her horn is made with some of the special stitches on my Bernina 380. I couldn't find a stitch that was perfect for her eyes, so I've left her as a silhouette. I like it that way though. I think it looks contemporary and pretty at the same time. I think it would suit a little girl's room.


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