Friday, 3 January 2014

Trying the Metric Pattern Cutting Trouser Draft

This pattern lived up to its reputation. The toile was hideous. Yes it fitted, but it still looked horrible. See for yourself (the photos are a bit dark though):



You'd think the pattern was developed to make us change it. This is one toile that is definitely not wearable, and will definitely need a lot of restyling. Naturally the first thing I did was take them in by an inch at each hem, and 3/4" at the knees. So that's a total circumferential reduction of about 10cm at each hem and 8cm at each knee.I only did one leg to begin with:



It's better, but still a bit baggy looking. Another centimetre and with a total hem reduction of 14cm, and a knee take-in of 12cm, I think I've just about got the "slim-fitting slacks" silhouette of the 1960s:


Now, I can tell you that these are not comfort trousers, at least not when made in calico with a non-stretch cotton tape waistband. They would definitely have to be made in stretch fabric (that has been repeatedly pre-shrunk) to be wearable. I'm wearing the toile now and the waist band will leave a line across my stomach. But that's probably that; if you want comfortable trousers in non-stretch fabric, they have to be loose-fitting. Guess why I like skirts. 

I will try the "close-fitting trouser block" next. I am doing these for my Pattern Cutting file (I have three now) but it's extra work to get me into those 90%s. : )